Fort Charles

If you watch the movie Pirates of the Caribbean you'll see their rendition of Fort Charles. Now, the people of Jamaica don't like the fact that they didn't bother using the real fort, so don't keep referring to the movie.

The fort is still well gunned. There is a good mixture of brass and iron cannons lining all sides of the fort.

Fort Charles is just a short walk up Church Street from the hotel. There is a small admission fee (I think it was $5 U.S.) that is good all day, so you can come and go as you please. You'll need to use your imagination a little bit - the fort used to be fronted by water on three sides. It was never successfully attacked during its lifespan.

The fort had numerous famous commanders, notably Lord Nelson and Admiral Benbow. On the far right side (as you come through the entrance) you'll see three small cannon on Nelson's Walk. Recent research by the Discovery Channel shows these more than likely came from one of Sir Henry Morgan's ships. The fort is a great symbol of English might of the period. At one time the fort had a complement of 104 guns. It was virtually impregnatable.

As you enter the fort, you'll notice some huge anchors at the entrance. It's hard to believe these were actually used by galleons of the time. They are massive. These two were dragging anchors. Along the walls you'll see rings embedded into the brick work. This is where ships were tied up after docking in Chocolata Hole, which is now filled in and served as the parade ground for the fort. Chocolata hole is the big open field bordering the Coast Guard station. Imagine Morgan's ship tied up to this ring.

As you enter the fort, you'll notice two white buildings on the grounds. Be sure to visit these - they are museums with information about the fort and the sunken city and house many artifacts.

Though we weren't supposed to, we snapped some photos of the artifacts recovered from one of the archeological excavations of the sunken city. You'll be amazed at the large number of pieces of pewter dinner and drink ware. Jamaica was a hotbed of pewter manufacturing so a lot of the recovered items represent the finest work of these period artisans. You'll also find clay pipes (there were red ones too, locally made but which virtually disappeared by the mid 1700s), medical implements that make you thankful for advances since then, finely carved jade statues from China and photos of the watch recovered, showing the time of the earthquake (11:42 a.m.).

Construction on the fort began in 1656. An additional layer was placed on top of the fort after the 1692 earthquake. The fort had sunk 3 1/2 feet during the quake. So you can see the different modifications to the fort over the years. There is a plaque commemorating Horatio Nelson's service at the force, where he served as a young officer in command of the batteries in 1779. The plaque recognizing his service notes:

"In this place dwelt Horatio Nelson. You who tread his footprints remember his glory."

Head behind the fort and you'll find more modern fortifications, built in 1888 on the new spit that had formed. The Giddy House was originally the Royal Artillery Store, which served the Victoria and Albert Battery. During the 1907 earthquake the Giddy House settled into the sand at a precarious angle. Step into it and find out why they refer to it as the Giddy House. It's a bit unnerving trying to stand straight up in it because your eyes will betray you.

Next to the Giddy House is the Victoria and Albert Battery. It also sank in the 1907 earthquake. The battery had two 9.2 and two 6 inch guns. Underground bunkers sank into the sand as well. You can still squeeze in to the battery if you have the fortitude (no pun intended).